How to Sew Thick Materials on an Industrial Sewing Machine
Sewing thick materials like leather, canvas, denim, or upholstery fabric on an industrial sewing machine can be challenging, but with the right techniques and equipment, you can achieve professional results. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to sew thick materials effectively.
1. Prepare Your Machine
Use a Heavy-Duty Sewing Machine: Ensure your industrial sewing machine is designed to handle thick materials. Machines like a walking foot or compound feed machines are ideal because they have the power and features necessary for these tasks.
Install a Suitable Needle: Use a heavy-duty needle specifically designed for thick fabrics, such as a size 16/100 or 18/110 for denim and canvas, or even larger for leather. Leather needles have a cutting point that easily pierces through tough materials.
Choose the Right Thread: Opt for heavy-duty thread like nylon or polyester, which is strong enough to withstand the stress of sewing thick materials. Thicker threads such as Tex 70 or Tex 90 are commonly used for these fabrics.
2. Adjust Machine Settings
Increase Stitch Length: Set your stitch length to a longer setting, typically between 3.5mm and 4.5mm. Longer stitches help prevent bunching and allow the machine to move the material more smoothly.
Adjust Tension: Thicker materials require a balanced thread tension. Start by slightly increasing the upper thread tension and then test on a scrap piece of the material to fine-tune as needed.
Check Presser Foot Pressure: Increase the presser foot pressure to ensure the fabric is held firmly as it feeds through the machine. However, don't set it too high as this can make it difficult for the fabric to move.
3. Use the Right Presser Foot
Walking Foot: A walking foot (or even feed foot) is highly recommended for sewing thick materials. It works by moving the top layer of fabric in sync with the bottom layer, ensuring even feeding and reducing puckering.
Roller Foot: If a walking foot isn’t available, a roller foot can help glide over thick materials smoothly, especially with materials like leather or vinyl.
4. Prepare the Material
Cut the Material Correctly: Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to ensure clean edges, which makes it easier to sew through multiple layers.
Use Clips Instead of Pins: For thick materials, clips (like binder clips or specialized sewing clips) work better than pins, which can bend or distort the fabric.
Press Seams: Before sewing, press seams flat with a heavy-duty iron. This helps to reduce bulk and makes it easier to manage layers during stitching.
5. Sewing Techniques
Slow and Steady: Sew at a moderate, consistent speed to give the machine time to handle the thick material. Sewing too quickly can cause skipped stitches or broken needles.
Use a Hump Jumper: When sewing over thick seams or multiple layers, use a hump jumper (a small piece of plastic or cardboard) behind or in front of the presser foot to keep it level and prevent skipped stitches.
Backstitching: Reinforce the beginning and end of your seams with backstitching to secure the stitches, especially important with thick materials that experience more stress.
6. Troubleshooting Common Issues
Skipped Stitches: If you notice skipped stitches, recheck the needle size, tension, and ensure you’re using a compatible thread for the material.
Thread Breaks: Thread breaks can be a sign of incorrect tension, or that the needle is too small for the thread. Re-adjust tension and consider using a heavier needle or a thread lubricant.
Needle Breaks: If the needle breaks, ensure you're using a heavy-duty needle appropriate for the thickness of the material. Also, slow down your sewing speed and double-check the alignment of your material.
7. Final Steps
Trim Threads and Inspect Seams: Once sewing is complete, trim any loose threads and inspect the seams for consistency.
Press the Seams: Pressing the seams after sewing helps flatten them and gives a more professional finish. For materials like leather, use a cold press or seam roller to avoid heat damage.
Conclusion
Sewing thick materials on an industrial sewing machine requires proper preparation, the right equipment, and careful technique. By following these steps, you can ensure that your sewing projects involving heavy fabrics are successful, with durable and professional-looking results.