Using Industrial Sewing Machines for Leatherwork

Using Industrial Sewing Machines for Leatherwork

Using industrial sewing machines for leatherwork requires special considerations due to the thickness and toughness of leather. Here’s a guide to help you get started:

1. Choose the Right Machine

Heavy-Duty Industrial Sewing Machine: For leatherwork, a heavy-duty machine, such as a walking foot or a cylinder arm machine, is ideal. These machines are designed to handle the thickness and resistance of leather.

Walking Foot: A walking foot machine is essential for leather, as it provides even feeding for the material. The foot "walks" over the leather, ensuring consistent stitching without dragging or bunching.

Cylinder Arm Machine: This type of machine is excellent for sewing curved or awkwardly shaped leather pieces, like bags or shoes.

2. Select the Correct Needle

Leather Needles: Use needles specifically designed for leatherwork, such as wedge-point or chisel-point needles. These needles have a sharp, cutting point that pierces through leather cleanly without tearing.

Needle Size: Depending on the thickness of the leather, use a size 90/14 to 120/19 needle. Thicker leather may require a larger needle.

3. Use the Right Thread

Heavy-Duty Thread: Choose a strong thread, like bonded nylon or polyester, which is durable and resistant to wear and tear. Thread size should match the thickness of the leather, typically ranging from tex 70 to tex 135 or higher.

Thick Thread Considerations: The tension settings on your machine may need to be adjusted to accommodate thicker thread.

4. Adjust Machine Settings

Stitch Length: Use a longer stitch length, typically between 3 to 4 mm. Short stitches can weaken the leather by perforating it too closely.

Tension Adjustment: Leather requires precise tension to ensure that the stitches are even. Adjust the tension based on the thickness of both the leather and the thread.

5. Presser Foot Adjustment

Increase Presser Foot Pressure: The presser foot pressure should be increased to keep the leather in place while sewing. However, be careful not to apply too much pressure, which can mark or damage the leather.

Use a Teflon or Roller Foot: A Teflon foot or roller foot can help prevent the leather from sticking to the foot, ensuring smooth feeding.

6. Prepare the Leather

Marking: Use specialized tools like silver pens, awls, or pricking irons to mark stitching lines on leather. Avoid using regular pens or pencils as they can leave permanent marks.

Cutting: Use rotary cutters, utility knives, or leather shears to cut leather cleanly. Ensure blades are sharp to avoid jagged edges.

7. Sewing Techniques

Slow and Steady: Sew at a slow, controlled speed to ensure precision. Leather does not forgive mistakes, as needle holes are permanent.

Backstitching: Use backstitching at the start and end of seams to lock the stitches in place. However, backstitch carefully to avoid too many perforations in one spot.

8. Using a Walking Foot

Even Feeding: The walking foot helps feed the leather evenly through the machine, preventing the layers from shifting.

Dual Feed Option: If your machine has a dual-feed or compound feed option, use it to ensure both the top and bottom layers of leather are fed simultaneously.

9. Handling Curves and Corners

Pivoting: For tight corners, keep the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and pivot the material to ensure precise stitching around curves.

Stitch Slowly: When sewing around curves, go slowly to maintain control and avoid stretching or misaligning the leather.

10. Finishing Touches

Edge Finishing: Use edge finishing tools like edge bevelers, burnishers, and edge paint to smooth and seal the edges of the leather after sewing.

Thread Trimming: Trim any excess threads carefully, and if desired, use a lighter to gently melt synthetic threads for a neat finish.

11. Maintaining Your Machine

Frequent Cleaning: Leather can leave behind fibers and dust, so clean your machine frequently, especially around the bobbin area and feed dogs.

Regular Lubrication: Keep your machine well-lubricated to handle the added strain of sewing through thick materials like leather.

Conclusion

Leatherwork on an industrial sewing machine requires the right equipment, careful preparation, and specific techniques. With the correct setup and adjustments, you can achieve professional, durable results in your leather projects. Whether you're making bags, belts, or upholstery, these tips will help you navigate the challenges of working with leather.

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