Roll seam on overlock: what is it and how to adjust it?

A roll seam, also known as a rolled hem or lettuce edge, is a type of seam finish often created using an overlock or serger machine. It results in a neat, rolled edge that is ideal for lightweight fabrics like chiffon or jersey knit. Here's how to adjust your overlock machine to achieve a roll seam:

Select the right stitch: Most modern overlock machines have a stitch option specifically designed for creating rolled hems. Consult your machine's manual to locate this stitch. It's usually labeled as a rolled hem or a narrow overlock stitch.

Adjust the differential feed: The differential feed controls the rate at which the front and rear feed dogs move the fabric. For a roll seam, you'll want to increase the differential feed ratio to gather the fabric slightly as it's being stitched. This helps create the rolled effect. Experiment with different settings until you achieve the desired look. Typically, you'll want to set the differential feed to a higher number, such as 1.5 to 2.

Adjust the stitch width and length: Depending on your fabric and the desired look, you may need to adjust the stitch width and length settings on your machine. For a narrower rolled hem, decrease the stitch width. For a denser stitch, decrease the stitch length. However, keep in mind that these adjustments may vary depending on your specific machine and fabric.

Thread tension: Proper tension is crucial for achieving a smooth and even roll seam. Adjust the tension dials on your machine according to the fabric you're using and the desired outcome. It's a good idea to test the tension settings on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your actual project.

Practice: Achieving the perfect roll seam may take some practice, especially if you're new to using an overlock machine. Experiment with scrap fabric of similar weight and composition to your project fabric until you feel comfortable with the settings and technique.

By following these steps and adjusting your overlock machine's settings accordingly, you can create beautiful and professional-looking roll seams on your sewing projects. Remember to refer to your machine's manual or contact Konsew LTD for specific instructions and troubleshooting tips.